Back to Canada
We only stay long enough in Alaska to spend $220USD to buy a new tyre, but it is changed with great gusto by the Chevron mechanic in Tok and we are mobile again.
We get to stay in some great peaceful lake-side camp-grounds, more bear warnings, this time we have our own bear spray bought in Dawson city. Andre gets some beautiful still sunsets and we keep passing great moosing ponds but no moose. I have my own theory!!
We make our way to Kluane National Park. This is a huge park that includes the largest non-polar ice-cap in North America due to existing glaciers. We see mountain dahl (sheep) and this is where there is the highest concentration of Grizzly bears in North America. Colours here again are incredible, we go on some gorgeous walks and stay around lakes at night. The salmon are beginning to spawn, we go up one creek where the bears are meant to be feeding on the salmon. We see the salmon jumping the current at their spawning grounds but no bears.
There has been a real dramatic drop in salmon numbers over the last few years. There are grave concerns about the cause of this and the whole flow on effect on the eco-system is a threat. The bears require the salmon to top their feeding before winter, they get the salmon largely after they spawn so do not affect the numbers, they also eat them a specific way enriching a whole biosphere below them. This lack of salmon could have drastic consequences, so suddenly a large amount of research is being thrown into this to work out the cause.
Time to make our way back to Whitehorse. I have found out about Frank Turner who is one of the founders and participants in the Yukon Quest dog -sledding race and his kennel is based in Whitehorse. We make arrangements to visit and spend time with Frank.